Two Hours Worth Finding

Early Morning and Late Night

Between 10pm and midnight, the Jemaa el-Fna runs at a different frequency from its afternoon self. Food stalls lit by single bulbs; storytellers with their gathered circles; gnawa musicians playing on with the persistence of music that is also ritual. Before 8am, the square is swept clean, the vendors setting up, the light horizontal from the east. September, when the tourists slowly return, is the month to find both hours.